Wagners Bistro in Gothenburg: veal fillet with Madeira sauce, white tablecloths and service we are still talking about

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Atmosphere and the room

Wagners Bistro sits centrally in Gothenburg at Östra Larmgatan 18 and serves classic French bistro food: fish, shellfish, meat and a range of smaller plates. We were in town for the autumn half-term and wanted a really good lunch, not just a quick bite between the shops.

The interior is genuinely handsome and elegant. There are white tablecloths, beautifully laid tables and a classic atmosphere that brings to mind the traditional French bistros. It does not always have to be modern and minimalist to be lovely, and we think Wagners Bistro does a very good job of holding on to a classic look.

The mood is cosy and exclusive without ever becoming stiff or formal. You can tell that care has gone into the details, but it is still relaxed and inviting to sit there.

The small plates

The menu is rooted in classic French cooking, and we quickly spotted several things we wanted to try. So we began with a few small plates before moving on to the mains. It is a way of eating we really enjoy, because you get to taste a little of everything.

We started with savoury churros with a vendace roe dip (85 SEK). It is a playful and slightly unexpected take on churros, which you would otherwise associate with the sweet Spanish version, and the idea suits the restaurant's small-plates concept very well.

Alongside, green olives and Marcona almonds (125 SEK), a classic little plate that goes perfectly with a glass of wine while you soak up the atmosphere. And then a duck liver canapé with silverskin onion marmalade (125 SEK), where the rich duck liver is balanced by the sweetness and acidity of the onions. A classic French plate that fits the style well.

Veal fillet and cannelloni

For mains we chose veal fillet with Madeira sauce, haricots verts and pommes frites (475 SEK). It is almost the very definition of classic French bistro food. A good piece of veal, a rich sauce and simple accompaniments.

We also had cannelloni with funnel chanterelles, cabbage and truffle (275 SEK). Funnel chanterelles have a deep, distinctive flavour, and together with the cabbage and truffle the dish had a very seasonal feel that suited autumn perfectly. It is good that the menu makes room for dishes like this alongside the classic meat and fish courses.

And how did it taste? It was fantastic. There was real depth of flavour throughout, sound technique and excellent ingredients, and you could taste it. We are very fond of dishes that are about good produce and proper cooking rather than making things needlessly complicated, and that is exactly what Wagners delivers.

The girls' dishes

Naturally, Alberte and Olivia came along for lunch. The girls each had a large portion of linguine (135 SEK per portion), and it was exactly what they fancied.

Although the place is elegant and classic, we never felt the children were out of place. Quite the opposite. We certainly do not think a restaurant needs a dedicated children's concept to work for families. What matters most is that the children feel welcome and that there is something they want to eat, and that worked very well here.

White wine and sweet wine

We are very fond of white Burgundy, and here one of the staff helped us choose exactly the right bottle. It cost 1.295 SEK, and the wine list has an interesting selection that suits the classic cooking well. Especially when you order several different plates, it is lovely to have a wine that can follow the whole meal.

With dessert we also ordered a glass of sweet wine (145 SEK). The girls had two soft drinks (110 SEK), and a bottle of sparkling water also arrived at the table (49 SEK). For us, wine is an important part of the overall experience, and it is not about picking the most expensive bottle but about finding something you genuinely want to enjoy with the food.

The desserts

We ordered a dessert of white chocolate and yoghurt cream, sea buckthorn sorbet and pan-fried sponge cake (155 SEK). It is an intriguing combination, where the sweetness of the white chocolate meets the sharpness of the yoghurt and sea buckthorn, and the fried sponge adds another dimension to the plate. A dessert where classic techniques meet Nordic ingredients.

The girls each had a portion of vanilla ice cream with chocolate sauce (95 SEK). An utterly classic dessert that had thankfully also found its way onto the menu. It is good that there is room both for the slightly more elaborate desserts and the simplest of classics.

Personal, attentive service

One of the things that made the biggest impression on us was the service. We experienced incredibly friendly, personal and welcoming service, where you genuinely felt wanted. It was almost as though you were being greeted by the owner himself. Not because we know whether it actually was the owner, but because there was a personality and a commitment that, sadly, you do not find everywhere.

For us, service matters enormously. You can serve the finest food, but if you do not feel welcome, something essential is missing. Here there was a lovely balance between professionalism and ease, and it helped make lunch a truly enjoyable experience for the whole family.

Price and level

Our total bill came to 3.394 SEK for two adults and two children. That covered small plates, mains, desserts, a bottle of white wine, a glass of sweet wine, soft drinks and sparkling water. The white wine alone, at 1.295 SEK, naturally made up a significant share of the bill.

It is not a cheap lunch, but we had also chosen to make a bit more of the occasion. Taking the food, the service and the beautiful surroundings into account, we think Wagners Bistro delivered a very good all-round experience. (Not sponsored)