Wagners Bistro in Gothenburg: veal fillet with Madeira sauce, white tablecloths and service we are still talking about

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Atmosphere and setting

Wagners Bistro is centrally located in Gothenburg at Östra Larmgatan 18 and serves classic French bistro food with fish, shellfish, meat and a range of smaller plates. We were in the city for the autumn half-term and wanted a really good lunch, not just a quick bite between the shops.

The interior is genuinely beautiful and elegant. There are white tablecloths, beautifully laid tables and a classic atmosphere that brings to mind the traditional French bistros. Things do not always have to be modern and minimalist to be lovely, and we think Wagners Bistro does very well at holding on to a classic look.

The mood is cosy and exclusive without ever becoming stiff or formal. You can tell that care has gone into the details, but it is still relaxed and inviting to sit there.

The small plates

The menu is rooted in classic French cooking, and we quickly spotted several things we wanted to try. So we began with a few small plates before moving on to the mains. It is a way of eating we really enjoy, because you get to taste a bit of everything.

We started with savoury churros with a vendace roe (löjrom) dip (85 SEK). It is a fun and slightly different take on churros, which you would otherwise associate with the sweet Spanish version, and the idea suits the restaurant's small-plates concept very well.

Alongside that, green olives and Marcona almonds (125 SEK), a classic little plate that goes perfectly with a glass of wine while you soak up the atmosphere. And then a duck liver canapé with silverskin onion marmalade (125 SEK), where the rich duck liver is balanced by the sweetness and acidity of the onions. A classic French serving that fits the style well.

Veal fillet and cannelloni

For our mains we chose veal fillet with Madeira sauce, haricots verts and pommes frites (475 SEK). It is almost the very definition of classic French bistro food. A good piece of veal, a rich sauce and simple accompaniments.

We also had cannelloni with funnel chanterelles, cabbage and truffle (275 SEK). Funnel chanterelles have a deep, distinctive flavour, and together with the cabbage and truffle the dish had a very seasonal feel that suited autumn perfectly. It is lovely that the menu also makes room for dishes like this alongside the classic meat and fish.

And how did it taste? It was fantastic. There was real flavour in everything, good craftsmanship and fine ingredients, and you could taste it. We are very fond of dishes that are about good ingredients and proper cooking rather than making things needlessly complicated, and that is exactly what Wagners delivers.

The girls' dishes

Naturally, Alberte and Olivia joined us for lunch. The girls each had a large portion of linguine (135 SEK per portion), and it was exactly what they fancied.

Although the place is elegant and classic, we never felt that the children were out of place. Quite the opposite. We certainly do not think a restaurant needs a dedicated children's concept to work as a family restaurant. What matters most is that the children feel welcome and that there is something they want to eat, and that worked very well here.

White wine and sweet wine

We are very fond of white Burgundy, and here one of the staff helped us choose just the right bottle. The bottle cost 1.295 SEK - and the wine list has an interesting selection that suits the classic kitchen well. Especially when you order several different plates, it is lovely to have a wine that can follow the whole meal.

With dessert we also ordered a glass of sweet wine (145 SEK). The girls had two soft drinks (110 SEK), and a sparkling water also arrived at the table (49 SEK). For us, wine is an important part of the overall experience, and it is not about choosing the most expensive bottle but about finding something you genuinely want to enjoy with the food.

The desserts

We ordered a dessert of white chocolate and yoghurt cream, sea buckthorn sorbet and pan-fried sugar cake (155 SEK). It is an interesting combination, where the sweet white chocolate meets the sharpness of yoghurt and sea buckthorn, and the fried sugar cake adds another element to the plate. A dessert where classic techniques meet Nordic ingredients.

The girls each had a portion of vanilla ice cream with chocolate sauce (95 SEK). A thoroughly classic dessert that had thankfully also found its way onto the menu. It is lovely that there is room for both the slightly more elaborate desserts and the simple classics.

Personal and attentive service

One of the things that made a particular impression on us was the service. We experienced incredibly friendly, personal and welcoming service, where you genuinely felt wanted. It was almost as if you were being welcomed by the owner in person. Not because we know whether it actually was the owner, but because there was a personality and a commitment that, sadly, you do not find everywhere.

For us, service means a great deal. You can serve the finest food, but if you do not feel welcome, something essential is missing. Here there was a lovely balance between professionalism and ease, and it helped make the lunch a really enjoyable experience for the whole family.

Price and level

Our total bill came to 3.394 SEK for two adults and two children. It covered small plates, mains, desserts, a bottle of white wine, a glass of sweet wine, soft drinks and sparkling water. The white wine alone, at 1.295 SEK, naturally made up a significant part of the bill.

It is not a cheap lunch, but we had also chosen to make a bit more of the occasion. Taking the food, the service and the beautiful surroundings into account, we think Wagners Bistro delivered a very good overall experience. (Not sponsored)