Pour the milk, cream, thyme, nutmeg, peppercorns and the piece of Parmesan into a saucepan. Heat it well, then turn down to a low heat so it only just simmers. Leave it to infuse for the next hour or so, stirring now and then.
Meanwhile, prepare the celeriac. Clean or peel the celeriac. The skin holds plenty of flavour, so you can simply scrub it well and only cut off the base, where a lot of soil hides. Alternatively, peel the whole celeriac – it's up to you.
Cut the celeriac into small dice.
Melt the butter in a wide, deep frying pan and brown the celeriac over a fairly high heat for about 20-25 minutes. Stir regularly and continue until all the pieces are golden and nicely tender. On my hob, that is setting 7 out of 9. *While the celeriac is cooking, make the brown sage butter and then keep it on a low heat - and get the cauliflower steaks ready.
Crumple a piece of baking parchment and lay it snugly over the layer of celeriac, turn down to a low heat and let it cook for a further 10-15 minutes. The pieces should be completely tender.
Strain the milk mixture through a fine-mesh sieve and pour it into a blender along with the golden, tender celeriac dice. Blend everything thoroughly at high speed for about 5 minutes, or until you have a smooth, even and creamy purée. Season to taste with salt and blend it well into the purée.
Brown sage butter
Melt the butter over a medium heat and add the sage and freshly ground pepper.
Let it foam up well, then turn the heat down a little. Let it cook until the butter browns, stirring as you go. Then turn the heat right down so it just stays warm until serving.
Cauliflower steaks
Cut the cauliflower into slices about 2 cm thick. The outermost pieces can be hard to use as steaks - save those for a salad or crudités.
Brush the slices with olive oil and season well with salt, freshly ground pepper and paprika.
Melt the butter in a frying pan with a little oil, let it foam up well, and fry the cauliflower steaks for about 4 minutes on each side - they should still have a little bite.
Serving
Spoon a generous dollop of celeriac purée onto a flat plate and spread it out into a circle.
Place the cauliflower steak on top and sprinkle with toasted hazelnuts.
Top with the sage butter (leave the cloudy brown solids at the bottom of the pan behind) and sprinkle with finely chopped parsley and freshly ground pepper.